Bifold Doors in NZ: What You Need to Know Before Buying

Bifold doors have become the default choice for connecting indoor and outdoor living spaces - and it's easy to see why. When fully open, they stack away almost completely, giving you an unobstructed opening that sliding doors can't match.

But they're not without compromises. Here's what actually works, what to watch for, and how to avoid the common mistakes that leave people frustrated with their bifold installation.

How Bifold Doors Actually Work

Bifold doors are hinged panels that fold accordion-style as they slide along a track. Most residential systems have 2–6 panels, though larger commercial installations can go wider.

Common configurations:

• 2-panel: Splits in the middle, folds to one or both sides

• 3-panel: Two panels fold to one side, one folds to the other (or all to one side)

• 4-panel: Usually stacks 2+2 to each side

• 5-6 panel: For larger openings, typically 3+3 or 4+2

The panels are connected by hinges and run on either top-hung or bottom-rolling tracks (more on this later - it matters).

Bifold Doors vs Sliding Doors: Which Makes Sense?

Bifold doors work best when:

• You want maximum opening width (80–90% of the frame vs 50% for sliders)

• The space outside flows naturally with the inside (deck, patio, courtyard)

• You have room for panels to stack (they need 200–400mm depending on panel width)

Sliding doors make more sense when:

• You're on a tight budget (they're 20–30% cheaper)

• Wind is a concern (bifolding panels can catch wind when partially open)

• Simplicity matters (fewer moving parts, less maintenance)

• You don't need the full opening (sliders still give you 50% access, which is plenty for most uses)

Bifold doors get specified because they look impressive. But if you're not actually going to open them fully most of the time, sliders are more practical.

Materials: Aluminium, Timber, or Something Else?

Aluminium Bifold Doors

The most popular choice in New Zealand, for good reasons.

Pros:

• Low maintenance (powder coat lasts 15+ years)

• Won't rot in our UV-intense, moisture-variable climate

• Slim sightlines maximise glass area

• Thermally broken frames prevent condensation

• Coastal-safe (doesn't corrode like steel or degrade like timber)

Cons:

• Can feel less "warm" than timber (though quality systems challenge this)

• Cheaper systems without thermal breaks will condensate heavily

Cost: $1,200–$2,500 per square metre installed.

Wooden Bifold Doors

Timber looks beautiful and suits character homes or designs with natural materials.

Pros:

• Aesthetic warmth and grain variation

• Can be stained or painted to match any style

Cons:

• High maintenance (oiling or repainting every 2–4 years)

• Expands/contracts with humidity (seasonal sticking common)

• Not ideal for full-sun or coastal locations

• More expensive than aluminium

Cost: $1,500–$3,200 per square metre installed.

Unless you specifically want timber for aesthetic reasons (and accept the maintenance), aluminium makes more practical sense in NZ.

uPVC Folding Doors

Less common here but available.

Pros:

• Good thermal performance

• Lower cost than timber or high-spec aluminium

Cons:

• Bulkier frames (reduces glass area)

• Can look plasticky

• Less suitable for large openings or modern designs

Cost: $900–$1,800 per square metre.

Glass Options for Bifold Doors

Standard specification is 6mm toughened glass, but you have options depending on your needs:

• Double glazing: Essential for thermal performance and noise reduction. Adds $150–$300 per square metre but dramatically improves comfort.

• Low-E coating: Reduces heat loss by 30–40%. Worth it for south-facing installations or colder regions.

• Acoustic glass: If your bifolds open to a busy street or noisy area. Adds $250–$400 per square metre but genuinely works.

• Tinted or reflective glass: For north or west-facing installations with harsh sun. Reduces glare and heat gain.

• Laminated glass: Two layers bonded with a plastic interlayer. Holds together if smashed (better security, safer). Standard for ground-floor installations in some council areas.

The Building Code requires safety glazing in certain locations - your supplier should know this.

Black Bifold Doors: Why They're Everywhere

Black aluminium bifold doors have dominated NZ builds for the last 5+ years.

Why they work:

• Sharp, modern aesthetic

• Suit most cladding colours (cedar, brick, weatherboard, plaster)

• Create strong contrast and definition

• Age well (black powder coat hides minor marks better than white)

Considerations:

• Show fingerprints and dust (not a dealbreaker, just reality)

• Absorb more heat in direct sun (frames get warm to touch)

Alternative colours worth considering:

Windsor Grey Matt

Appliance White Matt

Ironsand Flat

• Windsor Grey Matt: Almost as dark but softer

• Appliance White Matt: Timeless, particularly for coastal homes

• Ironsand Flat: Modern and practical

Most manufacturers offer 200+ powder coat colours. Choose something that suits your home long-term, not just current trends.

Top-Hung vs Bottom-Rolling: Which System Is Better?

This is more important than most people realise.

Top-Hung Bifold Doors

Panels hang from a track at the top, with a guide or small wheel at the bottom.

Pros:

• No floor track to trip over or collect dirt

• Cleaner sightlines

• Better for indoor-outdoor flow

Cons:

• Requires strong lintel or structural beam

• Slightly more expensive

• Can be harder to adjust if they go out of alignment

Best for: Main living areas opening to decks or patios where you want minimal obstruction.

Bottom-Rolling Bifold Doors

Panels roll on wheels in a floor track.

Pros:

• Easier to install (less structural requirement)

• More forgiving if things settle slightly

Cons:

• Floor track collects dirt, leaves, and debris

• Creates a trip hazard

• Water can pool in the track in heavy rain

Best for: Garages, workshops, or commercial spaces where the track isn't a major issue.

For residential living spaces, top-hung is almost always better - worth the extra cost.

Hardware and Operation Quality

Cheap bifold hardware fails constantly. Panels jump off tracks, hinges sag, and operation becomes frustrating.

What to look for:

• Stainless steel track and rollers: Ball-bearing rollers, not plastic. They should roll smoothly with minimal effort.

• Heavy-duty hinges: 3 hinges per door minimum for standard height, 4 for taller panels.

• Proper handles: D-pulls or recessed handles for smooth panels. Protruding handles catch on things.

• Multi-point locking: For security on external bifolds. Should engage at multiple points along the frame.

• Quality systems (like those from APL Window Solutions) design all of this as an integrated package. Off-brand cheap alternatives use generic hardware that rarely lasts.

Weatherproofing Bifold Doors

Bifold doors are harder to seal than sliders or hinged doors - you've got multiple panels, multiple joins, and they need to move smoothly while staying weathertight.

What matters:

• Interlocking seals: Where panels meet should have compression seals, not just brush strips.

• Head and sill drainage: Water will get in the track. Proper systems drain it away with integrated channels and weep holes.

• Threshold design: Low-profile thresholds are great for access but need perfect installation. Any pooling and you'll have leaks.

The Building Code E2 covers weathertightness requirements. Systems tested to NZBC standards take the guesswork out.

Installation quality matters as much as the door itself. Poor flashing or threshold detail will leak no matter how good the system is.

Thermal Performance: Keeping Heat In

Bifold doors are large areas of glass - thermal performance matters if you don't want massive heat loss and condensation.

What helps:

• Thermally broken frames: Polyamide strips inside the aluminium that prevent heat conduction. Non-negotiable for quality systems.

• Double glazing: Standard should be 4mm-12mm-4mm. Low-E coating adds 30% better insulation.

• Proper seals: Compression seals on all panel joints and perimeter.

• Non-thermally broken bifolds will drip with condensation every winter morning. Don't cheap out here.

Sizing: How Wide Can You Go?

Standard bifold openings are 2.4m to 6m wide, but systems can go larger.

Practical considerations:

• Panel width: Typically 600–1,000mm. Narrower panels stack more compactly but increase cost (more panels, more hardware). Wider panels reduce costs but take more stacking space.

• Height: Standard is 2.1–2.4m. Taller is possible but requires beefier frames and hardware.

• Stacking space: Panels need room to stack—usually 200–400mm depending on width. Make sure you've actually got this space and it doesn't block windows or other features. For openings over 6m, consider splitting into two sets or mixing bifolds with fixed panels.

What Bifold Doors Actually Cost

For standard aluminium bifold doors (4 panels, 3m wide x 2.1m high, double glazed):

• Budget systems: $4,500–$7,000 installed

• Mid-range: $7,500–$11,000 installed

• High-spec/architectural: $12,000–$18,000+ installed

Cost factors:

• Number of panels (more = more expensive)

• Frame material (timber 30% more than aluminium)

• Glass spec (Low-E, acoustic, tinting adds cost)

• Top-hung vs bottom-rolling (top-hung 15–20% more)

• Custom sizes or colours

Installation typically runs $1,500–$3,000 depending on structural requirements, flashing complexity, and access.

Don't forget building consent: $500–$1,200 depending on your council.

Common Mistakes People Make

• Underestimating wind: Bifolds partially open catch wind like sails. If your location is exposed, you need holdbacks or wind locks. Some people end up leaving them closed most of the time because of this.

• Not planning furniture placement: Panels stack inside or outside—either way they take space. Make sure furniture, plants, or BBQs don't block them.

• Skimping on hardware: Cheap systems operate poorly from day one and fail quickly. The door itself might look fine, but operation quality is terrible.

• Wrong threshold choice: Low-profile looks great but needs perfect installation. If your deck or patio levels aren't spot-on, you'll have drainage issues.

• Ignoring maintenance access: You need to be able to reach the top track to clean and adjust hardware. If it's 3m up with no access, good luck.

Maintenance: What You're Signing Up For

Every 3 months:

• Clean tracks and remove debris

• Wipe down glass and frames

• Check panel alignment

Every 12 months:

• Lubricate hinges and rollers

• Check and adjust seals

• Test locks and handles

Every 3–5 years:

• Professional service (especially for top-hung systems)

• Replace worn seals if necessary

Bifolds need more maintenance than sliders or hinged doors. If you're time-poor or hate maintenance, they might not suit you.

When Bifold Doors Are Actually Worth It

Good scenarios:

• You genuinely want to open the space completely and use it that way

• You're creating seamless indoor-outdoor flow for entertaining

• The opening is 3m+ wide (smaller openings, sliders work fine)

• You've budgeted properly and chosen a quality system

Bad scenarios:

• You just think they look good but won't use them fully

• You're on a tight budget and considering cheap options

• Your site is very exposed to wind

• You want minimal maintenance

Bifold doors at their best are transformative. Bifold doors done cheaply or inappropriately are expensive frustrations.

Finding the Right System

It’s important to choose a licensed manufacturer using proven systems like those from APL Window Solutions, including Altherm. At Phoenix Windows & Doors, we manufacture using these systems designed to handle New Zealand’s seismic activity, UV intensity, strong winds, and harsh weather conditions.

Questions to ask:

• Is this system thermally broken?

• What's the weathertightness rating?

• Top-hung or bottom-rolling? (Push for top-hung if residential)

• What hardware is used? (Brand name matters)

• What's included in the warranty? (Frames, glass, seals, hardware)

• Who's installing it? (Must be a Licensed Building Practitioner)

Get three quotes. The cheapest will almost certainly cut corners. The most expensive isn't automatically better - but there's a reason quality systems cost what they do.

Alternatives to Consider

If bifold doors don't quite fit your needs:

• Stacking sliders: Multiple panels that slide and stack (less folding complexity) 

• Lift-and-slide doors: Large sliders that lift off seals when opening (excellent weather and thermal performance) 

• Corner opening systems: Two sets meeting at 90 degrees (dramatic but expensive)

Sometimes a simpler solution makes more sense.

Final Thoughts

Bifold doors done well are brilliant - genuinely transformative for indoor-outdoor living.

Done poorly or inappropriately, they're expensive disappointments.

Invest in:

• Quality hardware and frames

• Proper thermal performance

• Professional installation with good weatherproofing

• A system designed for NZ conditions

Skip on:

• Cheap generic systems

• Bottom-rolling if you can help it

• Single glazing (double is essential)

• DIY installation (this needs expertise)

If you're also sorting windows or entrance doors, make sure the styles work together. Mismatched joinery looks disjointed no matter how nice the individual pieces are.

Your bifold doors are a 20+ year investment. Choose something that'll still work smoothly and look good a decade from now, not just what's cheapest today.