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Exterior Doors for NZ Homes: What Actually Performs

  • Writer: Phoenix
    Phoenix
  • 4 days ago
  • 7 min read

Your front door cops everything - sun, rain, wind, salty air if you're coastal, and the occasional frustrated kick when someone's locked out.


It's also the first thing visitors see and a major factor in your home's energy efficiency and security. So getting it right matters more than just picking something that looks good in a showroom.


Here's what works for New Zealand conditions, what to watch out for, and how to make a choice you won't regret.



Material Choices: What Suits NZ Best


Aluminium Front Doors


The most popular choice in NZ, and for good reason.


Why aluminium works here:


  • Zero rot or rust: Doesn't care about moisture or coastal salt

  • Low maintenance: Powder-coated finish lasts 15+ years without repainting

  • Thermally broken frames: Modern systems have polyamide thermal breaks that stop heat transfer and condensation

  • Slim sightlines: If you're going for glass panels, aluminium allows maximum glazing with minimal frame


Downsides:


  • Without thermal breaks, they conduct heat/cold badly (but all modern entrance doors have this sorted)

  • Can feel less "premium" than solid timber to some people (though high-spec aluminium systems challenge this)


Cost: $2,500–$6,500 for a standard front door, more for oversized or architectural designs.


Timber Entrance Doors


Timber looks beautiful and feels substantial. But it's high maintenance in our UV-intense, moisture-variable climate.


What works:


  • Cedar, oak, or treated pine with marine-grade finishes

  • Regular oiling or repainting (every 2–4 years depending on exposure)

  • Northern or east-facing installations where UV is less brutal


What doesn't:


  • Full sun, west-facing positions without eaves

  • Coastal locations (salt accelerates degradation)

  • If you hate maintenance


Timber doors also expand and contract with humidity changes. Expect minor seasonal sticking and gaps—it's just what timber does.


Cost: $3,500–$10,000+ depending on timber species and complexity.


uPVC External Doors


Less common in NZ but gaining traction, especially for budget-conscious projects.


Pros:


  • Good thermal performance

  • Low maintenance

  • Cheaper than aluminium or timber


Cons:


  • Can look plasticky (though quality systems have improved)

  • Bulkier frames than aluminium

  • Less suitable for large glass areas or modern designs


Cost: $1,800–$4,000 for standard designs.


Glass Front Doors


Full-height glass entrance doors or glass-dominant designs are increasingly popular in architectural homes.


Critical requirements:


  • Minimum 10mm toughened or laminated glass (often 12mm for safety)

  • Proper UV-rated seals to prevent degradation

  • Consideration of privacy (frosted or textured glass for street-facing entries)


They look stunning but need excellent design and installation—poor detailing and you'll have thermal issues, leaks, or worse.


Cost: $4,500–$9,000 for high-spec glass entrance systems.


Security: What Actually Matters


Marketing brochures love talking about security, but here's what genuinely helps:


Multi-Point Locking


Essential for external doors. These engage locks at 5+ points along the frame (top, bottom, sides) when you turn the key or handle. Far more secure than single-point deadbolts.


Standard on quality aluminium entrance doors, should be non-negotiable on yours.


Hinges


Heavy-duty stainless steel, concealed or with anti-jemmy pins. Visible hinge pins on external doors are an easy target.


Glass Specification


If your door has glass panels, use laminated glass—not just toughened. Laminated holds together if smashed, whereas toughened shatters into small pieces (safer for people, easier for intruders).


Door Frame Strength


The door's only as good as the frame it's in. Look for reinforced jambs and proper fixing back to the structure. Flimsy architraves that pull away from the wall defeat the best locks.


Weathertightness: Keeping the Outside Out


External doors face New Zealand's full weather gamut - driving rain, howling wind, harsh UV. Poor weather performance means leaks, drafts, and rot.


What to check:


  • Seals: Compression seals on all edges. Brush seals alone won't cut it in heavy rain. Replace every 8–10 years.

  • Thresholds: Must have integrated drainage and weathergrooves. Low-profile thresholds are great for accessibility but require perfect installation and fall.

  • Head flashing: Essential. Your builder or installer should integrate head flashing with your building wrap and cladding. This stops water tracking down behind the frame.


The Building Code requires external joinery to meet E2 weathertightness standards. Systems tested and certified to these standards (like Altherm through APL) take the guesswork out.


Installation matters as much as the door itself. A $5,000 door installed badly will leak. A $3,000 door installed correctly won't.


Thermal Performance: Keeping Heat Where It Belongs


Heat loss through doors is significant - especially older single-glazed or non-thermally broken designs.


What helps:


  • Thermally broken frames: Polyamide strips inside the aluminium that stop conduction. Non-negotiable in colder regions or if you want to reduce condensation.

  • Double-glazed panels: If your door has glass, standard double glazing (4mm-12mm-4mm) is minimum. Low-E coating adds 30% better insulation for about $200 more.

  • Proper seals: Gaps around doors leak heat and let drafts in. Quality compression seals solve this.


Doors contribute to your home's overall thermal envelope - cheap ones pull your whole house rating down.


Design: Making It Work with Your Home


Architectural Front Doors


Modern homes with strong geometric lines suit bold, oversized entrance doors. Think:


  • Pivot doors: Dramatic, sculptural, require precise engineering

  • Oversized single doors: 1.2m+ wide, heavy, make a statement

  • Full-height glass with minimal frames: Let light flood entries


These aren't cheap - expect $6,000–$15,000 for high-end architectural entrance systems. But for the right home, they're transformative.


Traditional Wooden Front Doors


Character homes, villas, and bungalows need doors that match their era. Modern aluminium can look out of place.


Solid timber with traditional joinery (raised panels, leadlight glass) maintains authenticity. Just budget for the maintenance.


Modern Aluminium Front Doors


Clean lines, black or dark grey frames, simple glass panels or solid designs. These suit contemporary homes and are the most practical choice for most NZ builds.


Front Doors with Side Panels


Sidelights (narrow glass panels flanking the door) add light and visual width to entries without compromising security (if using laminated glass).


Common configurations:


  • Single door with one sidelight

  • Single door with two sidelights

  • Double doors (rarely needed for residential unless you're going grand)


Cost: Add $1,200–$2,500 per sidelight depending on glass spec and size.


Colour and Finish Trends


Black aluminium entrance doors dominate current builds - and will for a while. They're sharp, modern, suit almost any cladding colour.



Other popular choices:


  • Windsor Grey Matt: Softer than black, versatile

  • Warm White Pearl: Timeless, particularly for coastal or light-coloured homes

  • Bold colours (mist green matt, new denim blue): Making a statement, but trends shift


Powder-coated aluminium comes in 200+ colours. Choose something you'll be happy with long-term - changing later means replacing the door or expensive re-coating.


Door Hardware: Handles, Locks, and Pulls


  • D-Pull handles (vertical bars) are popular on modern entrance doors. They're ergonomic and look clean.

  • Lever handles suit traditional designs and are easier for people with mobility issues.

  • Handleless designs (push-to-open or keyless entry) are emerging but less common. They work well with minimalist aesthetics.


Finishes to match your door colour:


  • Black doors → matte black or gunmetal hardware

  • Timber doors → bronze, antique brass, or black

  • White doors → polished chrome, brushed nickel, or black


Smart locks and keyless entry are increasingly popular. They integrate with existing multi-point locking systems, so you're not sacrificing security for convenience.


Cost: Decent external door hardware runs $200–$600 depending on complexity and brand.


Common Exterior Door Mistakes


  • Wrong sizing: Oversized doors look impressive but can be impractical (heavy, hard to seal, expensive). Standard 2.1m x 1.0m works for most homes.

  • Ignoring sun orientation: West or north-facing timber doors without eaves will cook. If you must go timber in these spots, expect frequent maintenance.

  • Skipping thermal breaks: Non-thermally broken aluminium in cold areas will drip with condensation every winter morning.

  • Poor threshold detail: Low-profile is great for access, but if your installer doesn't get the fall and drainage right, you'll have water pooling.

  • Mismatched styles: Your entrance door should relate to your windows and overall home design. Mixing random styles looks confused.


What About Double Exterior Doors?


Double front doors make sense for:


  • Grand entries in large homes

  • Accessibility (wider clear opening)

  • Moving furniture or large items


But they're often overkill. A single 1.0m or 1.2m door with a sidelight achieves similar visual impact without the cost and complexity of coordinating two doors.


Cost: Double entrance doors run $4,500–$9,000+ installed.


Building Consent and Compliance


Replacing your front door usually requires building consent unless you're swapping like-for-like. Changes to size, glazing, or structural openings definitely need consent.


Your installer should handle this, but check it's included in your quote. Consent costs $500–$1,200 depending on your council.


All external doors must meet:


  • E2 weathertightness standards

  • Thermal performance requirements (clause H1)

  • Safety glazing requirements if glass is present


Licensed systems from suppliers like APL Window Solutions come pre-certified, making compliance straightforward.


Installation: Why DIY Isn’t Recommended


Exterior doors affect your building's:


  • Weathertightness

  • Thermal performance

  • Structural integrity

  • Security


Poor installation voids warranties, fails building inspections, and leads to leaks or rot.

You need a Licensed Building Practitioner who understands flashing, drainage, and thermal detailing. Don't cheap out here - the installation often costs as much as the door for good reason.


How Much Should You Budget?


For a standard single aluminium entrance door (2.1m x 1.0m, thermally broken, decent hardware):


  • Mid-range: $2,800–$4,200

  • High-spec: $4,500–$6,500

  • Architectural/custom: $7,000–$12,000+


Add:


  • Installation and flashing: $800–$1,500

  • Building consent: $500–$1,200

  • Sidelights: $1,200+ each

  • Custom colours or finishes: 10–20% premium


A realistic budget for a quality entrance door installed: $4,500–$7,500.


Making the Choice


Start with these questions:


1. What's your home's style? Match the door to the architecture—don't fight it.

2. What's your sun exposure? Full west sun? Aluminium or heavily maintained timber only.

3. How much maintenance do you want? If the answer is "none," aluminium is your pick.

4. What's your security concern level? Multi-point locks and laminated glass for all external doors, but higher-spec hardware for vulnerable locations.

5. What's your thermal priority? Cold area or south-facing? Thermally broken frames and double glazing are essential.

6. What's your budget? Don't compromise on installation quality to save $500 on the door.


Finding the Right Supplier


Look for a licensed manufacturer using proven aluminium systems, such as those supplied by Phoenix Windows & Doors. Our solutions are specifically designed for New Zealand conditions, including seismic activity, high UV exposure, strong winds, and extreme weather.


Ask about:


  • Thermal performance (U-values, thermal breaks)

  • Weathertightness ratings (tested to NZBC standards)

  • Security hardware (multi-point locking standard or optional?)

  • Warranties (frames, glass, seals, hardware)

  • Installation (who's doing it and what's included?)


Final Thoughts


Your entrance door is a long-term investment - 20 to 30+ years if you choose well. It affects your home's energy bills, security, weather protection, and kerb appeal.


Spend what it takes to get:


  • Proper thermal performance

  • Quality weatherseals and installation

  • Multi-point security

  • A style you'll still like in 10 years


Everything else - exact colour, handle style, glass pattern - matters less than getting these fundamentals right.


For more on complementary windows or internal door options, check out our other guides.


 
 
 
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